A surfer by nature is a collector, and a collector by nature, an addict. Every experience in the water satisfies a craving. The feeling of being surfed-out, sunburnt with stiff hair and salt crystallizing on every pore after a long day is the vision of satisfaction. And yet a surfer’s longing to collect more experiences is never quenched.
Garret Swanson is a collector of classic longboards, vinyl records, and experiences. He is a 27-year-old surfer from Morro Bay, California, who stands out in any lineup. The small town of Morro Bay seems to have a hold on him, as he was born and raised here and never left. For his living he works at a restaurant by the bay—where long-time coworkers feel more like family—and in the time between, runs a word-of-mouth ding repair business from his garage.
Everywhere he goes he is greeted with big smiles and inside jokes, and often the question of, “where did you surf today?” People pull over when they see his van parked at a surf spot, because it usually means there’s a fun wave breaking. And if not, it is still worth it to watch him surf something ugly. His appreciation for the art of surfing is evident in his style, and he is always having fun. He seems to get as much pleasure from sharing boards as he does collecting them, ensuring that friends or family will not be without a board to ride. The priceless surfboards he acquires are not collected to be hoarded, or shown off. He does not believe in wall-hangers, but delights in the fact that if they land in his possession, they will soon be in the water where they were made to be. Perhaps what is most captivating about his surfing is the very tactful proficiency with which he rides a 1960s longboard in a fast and heavy Central Coast beach break.
This area of California is kind to those who need change to stay exhilarated. The sand and tide are constantly reshaping the wave in any given spot, at any given hour of the day. There is always something for those with a keen sense for this change, who will brave the cold and unfriendly elements, and Garret is quite at home in them. On a chilly evening in November, I sat down with him to ask some questions, and here is the result of that meeting.
